About wave selection
Here are some observations I’ve made so far and what I try to use for wave selection:
Surfable waves often come in sets, so there’s usually more than one good wave coming when you see one. Let all the eager beavers try take the first one and you can have the next by yourself
The first wave of the set is usually not the biggest
When an approaching wave looks really good from afar, it’s probably too good. This means it will break before it gets to you and you should leave it alone. The best wave is the one that from afar shows rising potential but it’s not very obvious yet
When the waves in general lack power or are not steep enough - the best waves to surf have a distinct kink at the bottom. It’s hard to describe but often it’s like a darker line at the bottom of the wave which indicates that that wave is steeper and more powerful than the other ones
When a “clean up” wave comes, i.e. a wave much bigger than the other ones and everyone just paddles out and over it - after this wave there often is a moment of super glassy water and a very good wave to surf. Be ready for it
And one more tip - when a big wave is approaching and you can’t tell if its a left or a right, leave it alone. It’s probably just going to close out on you.